The front lines of the insurgency

Taken out of its military context, the idea of “insurgency” has whiffs of energy and excitement. The kind of energy and excitement that was in abundance — too much abundance — in the heady days of meat analogue alternative proteins, circa 2017 to 2021.

Insurgents still are to be cheered on, according to Bain & Co., which recently issued its ninth annual review of Insurgent…